The following is a quick guide to purchasing archery equipment, some considerations and suggestions for specific kit items. Archery GB provide a short guide to archery kit here. As a rule of thumb, it is generally a good idea, where possible to see and get your hands kit before purchasing. We advise you chat to fellow members for ideas and tips. The club WhatsApp group is another good place to start, everyone is different and will be willing to provide lots of valuable advice and insights. The information below relates to recurve archery, however we also have Compound, Barebow and Longbow archers in RHAC, speak with these members if you are interested in these styles of archery.
Merlin Archery is very popular and usually has excellent prices and customer services, while also having on-site facilities to visit for hands on testing and customising kit. Another company Clickers Archery, are also reputable suppliers, while also having an in house range (Norfolk) for hands on testing prior to purchasing.
Arrows
- RHAC insists arrows must to be at least partially metallic.
- No full carbon arrows can be shot at the club.
- Highly recommend that we measure you first in order to find the correct arrow length and spine (stiffness) for the arrows.
Arrow fletching colours, typically made up of 3 fletchings with 2 colours. 2 fletchings of one colour, and a third of another colour. Typically the odd colour faces away from the riser to orientate the arrow for shooting off the rest. Three colours are allowed, but you must ensure they are applied to consistently across all arrows avoid bouncing off the rest. Bright colours are advisable as this helps with retrieving lost arrows. Red/Orange/Blue are good choices to distinguish from grass etc.
The xx75 Jazz arrows are good starter arrows and will shoot well up to approx 50yards. However these are too heavy for shooting at longer distances.
Limbs
Important tip: Highly recommend that you only purchase limbs with the universal ILF attachment form. The ILF system is compatible with almost all major archery manufacturers and will provide you the most options and flexibility to update your kit over time.
We strongly suggest you join the Club Limb Exchange. You can swap limbs on the exchange as many times as you like in the year. This allows you to shoot a suitable draw weight and work up to what you would like to shoot rather than just get limbs of your final draw weight and struggle with it or get limbs that are too light and you out grow them quickly as you progress/gain strength while maintaining good form.
Limb poundage is an important factor, and should not be overlooked. Consider too high a poundage, you will not be able to maintain form. Beginners can tend to overestimate their strength, drawing a bow once with good form is one thing but can quickly become difficult through a full session. Shooting weaker limbs alleviates this issue, but does come with limitations such as shorter less accurate distances, arrows more affected by the wind and increased bow vibrations. Regardless, slow, incremental changes to poundage is the best and by far, most advisable approach.
Riser
Riser colour is generally one of the first major considerations for a beginner so take your time a choose wisely. Choose a colour you like as ideally you will never have to replace it. Folks tend to build a theme or general colour pallet around the riser, following then with items like bow string, limbs and bow accessories.
The bow should have ILF fittings for the limbs rather than bolts. Generally the higher priced risers have a few more attachment points for additional accessories and are capable of staying rigid and not twisting under very high professional level draw weights. However, expensive risers are not really needed unless you are shooting +40lbs which generally will never be the case for a typical beginner.
Other considerations include the fit in your hand i.e the riser grip and overall riser weight. Ensure you feel comfortable with both aspects. Weight in particular, as the riser is the base minimum weight without attaching additional components e.g. limbs and stabilisers (weighted). It all adds up and can impact your capacity to shoot with good form throughout an entire session.
For reference, consider these experienced club members: Deborah shoots 30lbs, Jack shoots 40lbs draw weight. There are several good options; 25” (inches) is preferable for an adult. Although we have some shorter women in the club who have chosen a 23” riser as it is lighter for them to shoot.
Considering the Merlin website, as a rule of thumb its advisable to avoid any riser priced under £73. If you are going to Merlin I’d ask to try several in your price range. Win&Win & Hoyt are two major brands which give in my opinion some of the best equipment. However you pay a premium for it. WNS is Win&Win with a more reasonable price point. But there are many other companies that compete in the market such as Kinetic. The Kristen Xenia is a bow that many people have chosen once they have started shooting for its light feel in the hand.
Merlin risers – Mid point price low to high
Krossen Xenia recurve riser
Sight
We have found that a lot of the cheaper sights on the market have build quality issues and usually shake loose fairly quickly. Shibuya are generally excellent though. The Duel Click is rock solid. Several club members have been using them for years and they are rock solid.
Shibuya dual click standard
Avalon sights, good quality low/mid tier price
Arrow Rest and Pressure Button
We have a selection in the club shop. Again there are lots of options where you can buy something cheap, or you can buy something that will last longer than 6 months. We again like Shibuya rests and buttons. They are a little pricey but they will not need replacing and if they do wear out spare parts are readily available. Stick on rests are preferable to wrap arounds. Stick on rests will not hide issues with shooting form as much, and generally come as standard on new risers.
Shibuya rest-button bundle
Shibuya DX pressure button
String
Many club members use Reign Strings. They are generally stable during the whole shoot (i.e. they don’t stretch) and are well made. Other strings are available though; Fast Flight or similar is is ok. Dacron is not suitable for modern recurve bows and should be avoided. Get a colour you like, some manufacturers can provide braided colours.
Quiver
Get something in a colour you like in a target side quiver style. Back, pocket, bow and field quivers should be avoided. A pocket in the quiver helps to keep bits in and one that can be used with a belt rather than a clip on generally feels more comfortable. Get a colour you like.
Bow Stabilisers
AKA ‘a stick’ with a weight on it. Most archers consider at a minimum having a long rod, the long stick at the front of recurve bows. We recommend adding one fairly quickly after buying your own kit. Length, buy one that will fit in the luggage (measure the diagonal of the case) you want to take or the case you buy. A general rule of thumb is buy something long enough so that when the bow is resting on the ground the long rod it is comfortable to hold. When I’ve tested them previously, a dampener or flex ball makes any cheap long rod fell like a £400 long rod. So buy one of those too, many do come with a dampener such as the Avalon entry level range.
Finger tab
Something with two layers of leather and metal plate and a platform are generally best to shoot. Make sure you can fully curl your fingers while wearing it. The leather will need to be trimmed to fit. Weirdly purchasing leather and under layer alone can be more expensive that purchasing a finger tab.
Finger sling
Jack uses this style linked below. But any work. It is personal preference really. Alternatively you even easily make a sling using a rounded (more comfortable) shoelace, fixing it to your fingers with a quick and easy method (ask club members how to do this).
Bow Stringer
A webbed stringer is easier to use than a simple string and loop stringer.
Bow stand
A vital piece of kit to hold your bow between ends. Some are just cheap, nasty and difficult to put up. Others are ridiculously overpriced.
Arm Guard
Several styles are available. Traditional leather ones can be used as well as modern style ones. Get one you like that offers you enough protection. I shoot with a small one as I don’t hit my arm unless there is a major flinch with my shot. But newer archers may want more protection just in case.
Arrow puller
A must have piece of kit for any archer. Required to pull many arrow types as some contain carbon and can splinter causing tiny splinters which are painful and very hard to extract. Recommend you purchase one if coming to shoots regularly even while borrowing club kit.
Chest Guard
Chest guards are optional. They are good for keeping clothes out the way, e.g. short collars etc. I like the Easton one. If you think you will need one, just ensure that it fits well.
Bow Bag / Case
Recently, bow bags seem to have suffered from ‘shrinkflation’, so it is hard to recommend one. Quick access backpack style is generally chosen. Side or front opening is best. No idea why so many are top opening these days – it seems a bit silly as you can lose things all the way at the bottom. One with an arrow tube is essential.